5496P-014 Grand Complication

Extremely Rare Discontinued Model

Patek Philippe 5496P-014 Grand Complication “Honey” Perpetual Calendar Retrograde with Moonphase, Platinum, Salmon “Brun Dore Index Obus” Dial, Brown Crocodile Strap, Automatic, Skeleton Back with Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back, 39.5mm.

Here’s your chance to own a piece of Patek Philippe history. This is one of the rarest models made featuring the Salmon “Brun Dore Index Obus” Dial. The Patek Philippe model 5496P draws its lineage to the reference 5050 perpetual calendar. The 5050 was the first Patek Philippe pure perpetual calendar to break the $100,000 mark in the collectors’ market. The 5050 takes its cues from one of Patek’s all time great watches, the reference 5016 tourbillon perpetual calendar automatic, which like the 5050 has sweep seconds. Given the 5016 – 5050 – 5496 nexus, this watch immediately takes its rightful place in rarified air of elite complicated Patek wristwatches.

The reference 5496 is very interesting aesthetically, as its dial follows the same conventions as the 5016 and 5050. Namely, the dials of this trio all feature both classical elements, like the moonphase display and apertures for the calendar displays, and also playful elements like the retrograde date and the distribution of the day, month and leap year apertures. Significantly, these watches also have a center sweep seconds hand, which is a rarity. Patek freshened the design for the 5496 by using exquisite dauphine hands, a larger and cleaner dial with applied indices, and red-tipped retrograde date hand.

Case is platinum, with dimensions of 39.5mm diameter by 11.7mm thick. Bezel is quite broad as is the case back bezel. Front crystal is domed sapphire while the display back has a flat sapphire crystal. The platinum is mirror polished on all surfaces and the lugs taper inwardly. The case is impressive and minimalist at the same time.

This is the newest 5496 dial, which Patek calls Honey Brown, is warn and pleasant with applied hour indices, retrograde date scale with red-tipped hand, apertures for day, month and leap year cycle and moonphase display. It is unusual for perpetual calendar watches to have a center seconds hand as the 5496 does. Hands are dauphine, which is a testimony to Patek’s earliest perpetual calendar watches. Embossed seconds/minutes scale at the dial’s edge.

When the first Patek Philippe 5496P was introduced with its white dial, it was certainly an elegant watch but seemed to have, perhaps, a lack of temerity, a certain starkness. The new color creates a warmer atmosphere without breaking the classical codes of the brand. The ‘honey brown’ dial is indeed less conventional but it has a lot of charm. Playing with the light – due to a sun-ray pattern – it goes from a soft caramel tone to gilded reflections in the sun. No ostentation here, just an added dose of restrained originality. The other advantage of this color is that it provides a higher contrast with the polished white gold hands and indexes, while the apertures of the day, month and leap year pop out clearly from the dial itself.

The caliber is the Patek Philippe Caliber 324 S QR with 30 jewels, 9 bridges, 45 hour power reserve, beating at 28,800 beats per hour and comprised of 361 individual parts.

Also known as: Patek Philippe 5496P-014, Patek 5496P-014, atek Philippe 5496P014, Patek 5496P014, atek Philippe 5496P – 014, Patek 5496P – 014